René Boivin Jeweler – Françoise Cailles 1994 – Book

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Founded at the end of the 19th century by Jules-René Boivin, the company is unique in that it established itself thanks to women, bucking the trend of the male dominance that then reigned around the Place Vendôme. Jeanne Boivin, sister of Paul Poiret and the founder’s young widow, brilliantly took over from her husband and proved to be a shrewd businesswoman—and woman of taste—soon assisted by her daughter Germaine. “She created, with her designers (Suzanne Belperron in the 1930s, then Juliette Moutard until 1970), women’s jewelry with characteristics quite different from those of her competitors,” writes the expert Évelyne Possémé in the catalog for the memorable exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, “Art Deco and Avant-Garde Jewelry” (2009), which she curated. An admirer of Art Nouveau, she adopted the characteristics developed in her time by René Lalique: the importance of architecture, three-dimensional jewelry. Geometry or machinery never inspired her, even though she felt closer to the modern movement than to the jewelers of Place Vendôme. Her bracelets and rings, substantial in size, are sculptures that occupy space. Her materials, rock crystal or agate, are cut to perfection, without sharp, angular edges, but with sensual and voluptuous curves.

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